Trip to Bhuj in Gujarat

Blissfully remote and uniquely colourful is Bhuj in the Kutch region of Gujarat, which for decades, even centuries, has beckoned travellers and traders with the promise of release from the restrictions of civilization.
Old Kutchis still recount the romantic tales of caravans that criss- crossed the vast expanse of the Rann, which formed a part of the trade route between Central Asia and the Far East. The age-old routes have vanished in the maze of Indo-Pak border with no less interesting spy stories, border infiltration, smuggling and more recently the mystery of a plane that was never traced but claimed to have been shot down by the Indian Air Force.


A Tourist Delite

Bhuj comes as a pleasant surprise to most of the tourists who were skeptical about the destination as just another stretch of arid land on the western frontier of India. A sense of remoteness and space that is part of the mystique of Kutch is exhilarating. People are friendly, lacking the neurotic stripe that makes urbanites identifiable anywhere. Well-maintained budget hotels and restaurants serve the best of the vegetarian cuisine and at places the milk products were the tastiest. Herds of goats, sheep, cows and camels are a common sight in Kutch. The colourful arts, be it bead work or glass embroidery, copper bells or leather work produced in Bhuj are simply a temptation for the purse.


In and around Bhuj

In and around Bhuj there is plenty to be seen; somewhere something or the other will keep you happy for the day. Dholavira - for the archaeologists, colourful temples are taken over by the pilgrims, wildlife enthusiasts may zoom in their binoculars to locate the wild ass, a fashion crazy designer can get a lesson or two from the Kutch women who create a variety of embroideries in glass, bead, leather etc. Others can explore the fort ruins or the palaces and if you are not sure of the sun, consider few of the interesting museums in Kutch.


Water-The Most Precious Compound

Water is scarce here, so make sure to carry potable water if you are planning far-flung excursions. Surprisingly there are 27 rivers in Kutch but none of them fetch water. Vijay Vilas Palace is up for sale but no buyers for lack of water! It is certainly one of the most testing places on the globe where temperature shoots up to the extreme. Water is elusive, vegetation is choked and a sea of salt like an unending skating rink dominates the landscape. The Rann is referred to as a salt crusted wasteland, which keeps on adding and thereby absorbing the air moisture which, results in skin cracks. I wonder if this much of salt can be put to any industrial use or shipped to the Gold Coast (Ghana) straightway, where once they traded gold by equal volume of salt!


Kutch Museum

To being with one should consider the Kutch museum (the oldest in Gujarat) in order to get a proper preview of lands and life in the region. As a part of marriage celebration of Rao Kehngarji in 1884 an exhibition of Kutch arts and crafts was organised. Later this collection of 5897 exhibits necessitated the construction of a museum complex. Named after Sir James Fergusson, the museum continued to be the private property of Maharao for his personal guests. However after Independence it changed its name to Kutch Museum and entry was open to all. Besides numerous handicrafts, textiles, arms, coins, utensils, the museum is noted for its collection of Kshatrap inscriptions dating back to 89 A.D. and a seven trunked elephant of Indra which is a 18th century wooden masterpiece called Airavat.


Maharao - Sri Madansinhji Museum

One can walk down to the nearby Aaina Mahal to explore another private collection of the Maharao - Sri Madansinhji Museum that is a storehouse of royal paraphernalia. Travel writers have by passed this museum as a mausoleum of 19th century mail catalogue art objects. However, one should save time to appreciate the 47 feet long panel of Kutch paintings depicting Nag Panchmi procession commemorating the victory of the Kutch army over a Mughal subedar. The painting executed by Juma Ibrahim in 1876 is a perfect specimen of Kamangar - a Kutch painting tradition that spread to other parts of Gujarat. Marriage Mandap is another attraction dwelling upon articles that are required for a typical Hindu marriage under the Vedic rites. Adjoining to the Aina Mahal is the City Palace, which is party open to public. One can climb up the steps to get a view of the spacious Darbar Hall decked with wild life trophies.

Attractions of Royal Cenotaphs

In the centre of the Hamisar Lake are the numerous royal cenotaphs built in red sandstone. Some of these are specimens of fine carvings on stone. of these funerary monuments, Rao Lakhpatji’s Chhatri is the largest and the best preserved. With Maharao Lakhpat’s death, 15 of his consorts too gave in their lives on the funeral pyre as evident from the memorial stone.


Dholavira Archaeological Site

Beyond the city precincts, one may consider Dholavira (260 kms from Bhuj) and save a full day for a trip to this archaeological site, which is one of the 45 Harappan sites in Kutch. Here archaeologists are at work, processing every bit of underground wealth that they discover and creating a true picture of the ancient civilisation that is believed to predate the ancient Vedic Age.

The Famous Circuit Tour namely: Bhuj - Roha - Kothara - Mandvi - Khera - Bhuj.

Another day can be planned for a circuit tour namely Bhuj - Roha - Kothara - Mandvi - Khera - Bhuj. Roha, 45kms west of Bhuj, presents a picturesque hill top fort, which is in ruins except for few of its buildings including a temple. Another 45kms brings us to Tera, famous for a colourful Jain temple, however a very different Jain temple, as if painted thoroughly with silver paint and profusely sculptured on the exteriors can be seen at Kothara (30kms from Tera). One can drive south (60kms) to reach Mandvi where Maharao’s summer resort - Vijay Vilas Palace can be seen amidst its silent splendour with a spill of cool sea breeze. Close by is the Arabian Sea and the famous Mandvi port where sea faring people can be seen assembling the ships. In ancient times Mandvi was an important port given to foreign trade, which contributed to the Kutch prosperity. One can prefer spending the evening here to celebrate the immemorial tradition of sundowners. Alternatively leave early in order to get a glimpse of the 7th century Shiva temple ruins at Khera, 40kms away but en route to Bhuj.

Tour guides are particular about a trip to the Banni area in order to explore the different tribes engaged in a variety of handicrafts. Each village is made up of a cluster of bhungas (dwellings) made of stone, mud, and dung. These dwellings are rounded structures with a conical roof. The thick walls keep the interior cool during summer and warm during the chilly clime. The people are friendly and they don’t mind taking visitors inside their bhunga, which has a spotlessly clean floor with highly, decorated walls in mud. It spells the high degree of creativity by the tribals. Utensils, embroideries, and a pile of quilts are well arranged. The greater the pile of quilts, the greater respect commanded by the owner as it indicates the number of guests he can entertain in one go.


Ludia- The Farthest Point

The farthest point is Ludia, 75kms from Bhuj where the Harijan community creates wooden crafts while women are given to embroidery. The women at Dhordo work out still better embroidery called Mutva. The geometric and angular patterns reflect the Sauf embroidery by the Sodhas, which is believed to be the earliest extension of Iranian influences. The ladies from Lohana community busy themselves in silk thread work in deep hues.
However, the most popular work force is that of the Rabaris, dressed in back skirts with creative edges embroidered and so are their profusely decorated veils with tie and dye patterns.
A Rabari bridegroom’s embroidered long coat is worth a look for the dazzle of glasswork that has been so finely fixed together. In fact their patterns, designs or colours of their dress and embroidery identify the Kutch caste and communities. The rare to come across is the intricate patterns of embroidery by the Jat community where the tiny mirrors are so meticulously taken care of. Hodka village is famous for its leatherwork while the craftsmen at Zohra produce the fine bells with copper plantings. At Nirona one finds a unique craft called Roghan - art akin to the Afridi wax cloth that is created by the lone craftsman in the village. While exploring the Banni area consider halting at Bindiara for dairy products. Kutch wool has long been famous for its quality and the best place to buy some of these woolen shawls is at the cooperative shops where they are produced.


¤ An Exclusive Temple Tour of Bhuj

A temple tour of Bhuj commences with Punareshwar (35kms from Bhuj) noted for its 9th century Solanki temple and a palace at Vadimedi where religious rites are performed. A few kilometers from Punareshwar is a small hillock with 72 idols of Yakshas identified with Greeks who are believed to have strayed to this area during a shipwreck. A further 100kms drive brings us to an 8th century temple dedicated to the goddess of the ruling family. This place, Lakhpat boasts of a beautiful landscape where a fort in ruins can be visited along with a tomb and a mosque noted for their fine carvings. A nearby gurudwara is historically significant, as Guru Nanak is believed to have visited this site while he was on his way to Mecca. Few of his relics are retained here. An hour's drive brings us to Narayan Sarovar- one of the five holy lakes of India. Though bereft of water, this site is the oldest and holiest of the Hindu pilgrim points in Kutch, which finds reference in ancient texts. Few kilometers from Narayan Sarovar is Koteshwar - an ancient pilgrim site famous for its temple overlooking the sea. Possibly it was associated with Buddhism at one time as Hieun Tsang visited it and further a Buddhist arch was discovered here. An ideal place to enjoy the sunset but take care not to shoot pictures in the prohibited zone.

Best Time To Visit Bhuj

The best time to visit Bhuj is between November and March. Summer is severe and the dust or the high-speed winds can spell havoc. One of the most colourful fairs in Bhuj is the Drang fair celebrated around Shivratri when locals assemble to celebrate and camel and bullock races are organised